Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Memories

We've been back in the States for a few days, and life has finally slowed down enough for me to assemble some thoughts on what I've taken away from my experience in Vytegra. I was unable to make time to blog during the trip, but it seems fitting to reflect on my memories now, considering how persistent this word "memory" was during the trip. At every site we visited, the people implored us to remember them and loaded us down with tokens and gifts "на память"—for memory. My favorite such keepsake was given me by a student from the 6th grade Russian grammar class I attended at School #2. Her name was Sasha. She chased me down as we were leaving and gave me a heart-shaped trinket with the words "To Bryn from Sasha" written on the back, insisting that I remember her. Don't worry, Sasha, I remember.


Another face from School #2 that I'll remember is Katya, my Katya (standing, on the right), who was my guide around the school. That day I was lucky enough to sit in on two Russian grammar classes, 11th and 6th grade. The 11th grade class was about complex sentences, and the 6th grade class was about different types of pronouns. I was able to understand the lessons well enough to want to take notes on them (and I learned a lot!), and Katya patiently helped me when I fell behind, corrected my spelling, and explained technical terms in simple Russian so that I could understand. Thanks, Katya!

Another unforgettable experience was dinner and dancing with the faculty at School #2. I was reluctant to dance at first, especially after eating so much food, but everyone was so carefree and energetic. The mood was infectious, and we learned some cool Russian dance moves from Darya Sergeyevna (I might have misremembered her patronymic), who was the teacher of my 6th grade grammar class (3rd from left) and the economics teacher (leftmost) whose name I never learned.

I'm already running out of time again, and I've barely scratched the surface of all the interesting people we met and the incredible experiences we had. But before wrapping up, I have to mention Marina (on the left), whom we met at School #1 and again at the DDT. She had such a warm personality. I wish we had gotten to talk more. I think we would have become friends.

So those are just a few of the lasting impressions of this trip. Every day I find myself suddenly remembering different things I had forgotten before. I wonder what memories the people in Vytegra will have of us.

Monday, March 8, 2010

Videos from Rus



In many cases, the snow removers had to use bulky equipment, like this bulldozer. Difficult to use a machine that isn't meant for the job specifically.



Outside the historic Art Museum in St. Pete. Video was taken from the walkway leading to the frozen Neva river.



Video taken at a famous pedestrian walkway late at night in St. Pete. The walkway was the best cleared area during the whole trip to Rus.



Provincial Russia was a winter wonderland. Here, our group is visiting the birthplace of influential poet N. Klyuev.



Couldn't help but take a video of this tractor. It kept moving back and forth outside a historic building we visited. Only a towel covered the engine.



We couldn't take the bus over this small log-bridge, so we moved into an old VW truck. If any of us were scared, the driver told us to close our eyes.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

last day

Day 8

This was our last day in Vytegra and it’s easy to see that we are all exhausted after such a busy, exciting, and draining week, and today was no exception. We still had another school to visit today, but this one was the technical/vocational school for the kids who didn’t really make it into high school. The school was really neat to see, and I know that despite how tired we all were, we still found it interesting because the students were a little older and the atmosphere was slightly different.

The students there seemed much more involved with us and less shy than the other students we’ve met who were about the same age (the younger kids everywhere were never shy about anything); they asked a lot more questions than the others and it really seemed like they asked better/more intelligent questions. And I think that’s a little surprising because these are the kids who didn’t quite make it, yet they still seemed so ambitious; many of the ones I chatted with were still planning on going to a university. And even though they didn’t show the same respect to their teachers that all the other schools have, they still paid a lot of attention and respect to us. Plus they gave us this amazingly beautiful pastry/cake and one boy serenaded us, so this school was pretty cool as far as I’m concerned.

In the afternoon we went to the children’s house place (not an actual child’s house but a place for the youth in town), which was a really cool stop. We were so burnt out, but we still managed to do crafts and watch dances. We all thought the dances were really good, and they were kind of a mix between traditional Russian and modern. The really neat thing was though, at the end of the dances we were again presented with the same welcoming bread and salt as the first couple of days. Traditions run strong.

I really enjoyed learning how to make things with yarn and sticks, even though it was a huge struggle and mine isn’t exactly pretty. And the same goes for making the large lucky breasted Russian dolls. It’s hard to compete with these kids because they are so talented with theses arts and crafts! There were entire 3D pirate ships and large palm trees made out of the yarn, and then there was the incredibly beautiful (and expensive) hand made Vytegra lace. It’s so hard to believe that the students do these things, and they start so young! No matter how much I painted, drew, colored, stitched, or sang when I was younger, it never got any better; clearly I wouldn’t have made it in Russia. And I think the really shocking thing is that this isn’t the only thing they do. In addition to school and clubs and crafts, they do also play sports. I was really surprised to talk to so many basketball players and fans, and I was also really sad when some girls invited me to come watch them play on Sunday, but we won’t be here anymore then. These students are just so warm and friendly, and they have accomplished so much at such a young age with such a tough curriculum and so many great hobbies. They are truly very impressive and very helpful. Every time we run into one of the students on the street they just start walking with us and talking and helping us find the places and things we want; it’s such a great experience!

The students we’ve met really make me think about my own life and what I do and what I have accomplished or what my skills/talents/passions are, and I just feel like even with everything I’ve done and everything I’ve seen and visited, in so many ways I pale in comparison to the Russian youth. And despite all the things they do, they are so interested in us and our lives because we are so different to them, but I really feel like we are much more similar than I first imagined. And sometimes I feel like if they came to America they might be slightly disappointed, because they wouldn’t be treated in the same way as we were treated by the Russians here, and they would see the differences in the cultures, superstitions and beliefs. Of course they would like to see the cities, monuments, people, cars, and hear our accents, but when it comes down to the culture and our history, I really feel like it might be a disappointment for them, because of the incredibly rich and cultured society they come from. But then again Ethan is in the US, and that would be MORE than enough for anyone of these students to be happy anywhere!


The soviet submarine we saw today was really neat and the nice dinner we had tonight was really enjoyable. A BIG thank you to Alina and Tamara Pavlovna for everything you’ve done and everything you’ve worked so hard to put together for us!!!!! This has been such an amazing learning experience and I know that none of us will ever forget anything that happened here. This trip was so great and I know it will only get better in the years to come, so thank you for everything! And anyone who’s going next year, I want my pottery!!!

My favorite discussion: the one we had last night at the cafe about the zero or max thing in Russia

“creepiness, zero or max . . .” Awesome.

Friday, March 5, 2010

Connor_Last Day in Vytegra :_(


Quick blog post before our farewell dinner. We visited not one, but two vocational schools AND a Soviet-era submarine today. The schools were a good change because we got to meet students who are closer to us in age - about 18-19 years old. After 11th grade, students can attend a vocational school to either prepare for a career or university. At the school, I recognized two of the rock musicians from the concert our first night in town. Similarly, my fellow ASB'ers have noticed students from our school visits walking around town. Getting to know the young people in this way shows how thoroughly we've been immersed in Vytegra life.

Parting Words from Vytegra





























A couple last words about the trip....

Although it will be great to get back to the real world of Ann Arbor, we will certainly miss Tamara Pavlavna (who practically runs Vytegra), the loads of food that is pushed on you, the бабушки, strange things that happen for no reason, Ethan's 12-year-old groupies, slipping on the pure ice they call sidewalks, the strong culture present throughout the town, and of course the posse of children that follow you around the town when they get a chance.

This has been a great trip and an eye-opening experience. If I came to Russia by myself, I know I would certainly not have the privilege of meeting the people of Vytegra and taking part in some of the culture that tourists do not see. This trip has been about taking the road less traveled by, and I certainly am happy that I had the chance to take part in this great trip to the small town of Vytegra.

The Great Town of Vytegra

Well, another night in Vytegra, and a great one at that. We began the morning with our third and final school. I must say that even though these students were considered the "troubled youth" of Vytegra, they seemed to really have a blast there. This is the first time that we didn't hear the administrators praise not only their students, but also their teachers. We were able to hear what the school does for the children and then show us a little bit about what school is really like for them and that was refreshing. Don't get me wrong, with how little the town has, it is very impressive what kind of education these kids get in Vytegra.

It was a very laid back environment and it reminded me very much of some of my classes in high school. I feel like the kids at this school were not afraid to make a mistake or ask a "stupid question" in front of their teachers where as some of the other classes that we have visited in the other two schools were a little like that.

After answering questions from the kids like, "Do you have drug problems at the university," "What do you do in your free time," "How do you like American politics," "What are your classes like," "What do you want to be in life," and so on, we were able to talk to them a little bit and of course...take millions of pictures. It is funny how all the kids want to do is get a look at you or take a pictuer of just you or most often take pictures with you without saying a word to you. It doesn't bother us at all, but it definitely is a different experience to be the one that everyone want to see. Sometimes it is like we are in a zoo or we're some really big celebrity. I don't know how people constantly in the spot light do it.

Then we moved on to the next hot spot in Vytegra, ДДТ, which was a great place. It was like a community center for kids in town to learn how to make traditional crafts like beautiful lace, dolls, cross stitching, weaving, and so on. They also had dance and exercise classes. While we were there, we were taught how to make a traditional doll, which was funny, because the bigger the bosoms you made, the better luck it was, and the bigger wishes you could make. Not being so talented, I made one bigger than the other, which was funny, because the woman who was so patiently helping us out came by and quickly pointed out that they were not the same size, saying, "Oh, you have a little wish and a big wish." We also we able to see one of the girls in the town make lace. Wow was that talent and great patience. The teacher told us that it takes about 1 year to learn how to make lace and, depending on the pattern you want to make and what you want to make, it takes about 25-30 hours to complete. I could not believe that when I heard it. And looking over the girl's shoulder making that lace, I just don't know if I would be dedicated enough to sit there uncomfortably for 30 hours carefully braiding the lace together.

After the crafts, it was time for dinner. As it was our farewell dinner, we all dressed up nice and went to our normal spot, Bistro. It was another great three course meal with appetizers of cabbage salad, marinated cucumbers, a plate of salami, cheese, and ham, and bread with butter and salmon laid on top. Then dinner and dessert came. It was chicken and potatoes, ice cream, special berry tort, and, of course, tea. Dinner was accompanied with many toasts and laughs.

Finally, as a night caper, we decided to go to the local club for one last night on the town. With nothing else to do but pack, we figured, "Why not?" We had been invited by some of the students at the school today. Come to find out, as we awkwardly walk in to the club, tonight was for younger kids. Needless to say, we were kicked out of the club because we were too old! A great way to end the trip.

Thursday with the babushki

Our babushka in the village of Zamosh'e who prepared quite a feast for us, including blini, the best fresh pickles, and tea from a samovar.


I've had long day…so keep that in mind. I'm attempting to digitally archive yet another interview that is mostly static but also a Russian woman singing her interview - a very common approach to interviewing, apparently. The hotel toilet is running, and Bryn is attempting to sleep with me typing, the toilet running, and archival electronic equipment whirring. She is brave. She has also had a long day. I missed most of the vyecherinka that happened tonight at the Bistro, including the $50 check. Word to the wise - while in the motherland.


Just had a mostly one-way gmail chat with Leanna, who is busy amidst the protests at UCLA. It's a crazy world out there - protests over public education and a world away…a crazy babushka and her friends who share their village, their lives, and food and culture with us Americans, wondering if we still view them, the Russians, as enemies.


Our definitive answer was no. No one would be enemies if they experienced the amazingly gracious hospitality that we were so lucky to receive.

RUSLAN's next project...

historic preservation?